November 29, 2011

New Caledonia blog

As part of the Pacific yacht charter sailing experience New Caledonia completes the set. Tonga is the most benign destination sailing inside a lagoon, Tahiti, with compact lagoons around large Islands joined by open water passages of just 20 miles is challenging enough to satisfy the adventurous in spirit but still easy sailing. New Caledonia is one large Lagoon that opens up to the ocean in part and is big enough in places to be considered an open body of water requiring a moderate level of competence in navigating and anchoring.

Marina Du Sud

Charter start is from Marina Du Sud, a modern marina surrounded by luxury apartments and is excellently appointed with facilities for the cruising fraternity. A 1km walk over the hill you come to the city centre where shops open early and a colourful array of fresh produce is available from the morning market located just past Port Moselle. The native and Asian traders speak very little English but we got by and came away laden with healthy provisions for our 7 day charter. Just across the marina and up the road is a supermarket where the balance of what you will require can be found at reasonable prices.

The French cheese, bread and wine and most everything we purchased was delicious. The French attributes of living make this destination rich in flavour, colour and 

Fresh Produce market in Noumea.

culture. Mostly I found the cost of living very reasonable. It is not expensive for the locals to live here so if you adopt a practice of integrating you will find your budget will go a long way.

On our first night we ordered the most delicious pizza just up the road from the marina, its free delivery but if your French is not up to placing a phone order Gianni will cook your Pizza and his lovely wife will drive you back to the marina. Dining out is where the cost can build and this was an expensive pizza but it was also most satisfying. There is a restaurant in the marina that came highly recommend and Au Petit Cafe just up the hill is said to be the best in Noumea with a steady local clientele bookings are essential.

As a seven night charter it was necessary to keep on the move the entire time. Our plan was to take in the mainland then up to the Isle of pines and downwind through the atolls of the southern isles. Writing this on day 6 i realise we have not allowed enough time for such a large area of diverse and plentiful attractions. I would like to have had 2 more days in the Isle de Pines and another day in Prony Bay. While here in the southern Isles I would love to check out the Islands all around us that we are passing by. The luxury of cruising is time, if you can afford it allow extra days. 

The total charter territory is extensive allowing ocean passages to the Loyalty Islands and on to Vanuatu. The extended cruising territory of the Loyalty islands and Vanuatu requires a higher level of experience and should be embarked upon as an ocean cruising adventure rather than a normal charter sailing holiday. The Loyalty Islands are a passage back in time and stunningly beautiful but they lack the protection of a reef and the good anchorages are spread out. The crossing is over 100 miles to Lifou and a further 40 miles down to Ouvea. There are parts of Ouvea where permission needs to be granted by local chiefs which must be done. When treated with respect for their customs the locals are friendly and welcoming. The cost of this permission is a standard pouch of tobacco but the value of meeting with the tribal chief is priceless. If you are of a mindset to visit somewhere less travelled the Loyalty Islands would be an unbeatable experience. We recommend you allow at least 2 weeks and fly out from Ouvea enjoying the downwind passages but not the 140 mile trip home, mostly on the wind. We can also arrange a skipper to make such a journey possible while you relax.
The charter fleet in New Caledonia is mostly catamarans with 3 new Catana catamarans added to the fleet in 2011. The Catana 47 we sailed was particularly well suited to this destination with its dagger boards for sailing to windward and minimising leeway especially comforting when navigating through passages between reefs. When at anchor the boards were retracted allowing us to moor close to shore.
The trade winds blow an average of 16 knots from the SE with this being in the upper end of the range in the winter and the lower end of the range in the summer. Mostly the winds we had in late October were at a perfect 12- 18 knots but our first day out we had a weather pattern to the north creating fortified trade winds of 25 – 30 knots, which lasted 2 days. In the morning the winds tend to be lighter and variable allowing progress to be made to arrive in comfort, ready to enjoy the day. There is a chance of westerly winds in the winter which typically last for 3 days requiring the selection of alternative anchorages.

Glassy seas in Prony bay.

One of many Isles.

Charter itinerary
The Cruising area stretches to the south 60 miles to the Isle of Pines. East to west it is some 35 miles across from the Isle De Pines or the mainland to the isles of the outer reef.
We headed south along the coast to the anchorages on the Ile Ouen or Prony Bay and from there up to the Isle of pines and back via the southern Isles. Alternately you can cross from the mainland into the Southern Isles on your way up to the Isle of Pines.
By the time we had provisioned the boat, completed the formalities of skippers briefing and extracted the base managers knowledge of the cruising area it was getting late in the day. Preparation is important in any charter but especially in Noumea as there are few places to take in stores along the way and the remoteness of the anchorages means any technical assistance is going to be over the phone. Expect to spend the first night in the marina or Ilot maitre just 3 miles from Noumea.

Day 2 was our first morning start and we headed for the Baie de Lar Tortue (Turtle bay) recommended by the base manager. This is on the western tip of Isle Ouen and is a pretty sandy bay well situated as a night anchorage for exploring the adjacent reefs of the southern lagoon. The resort that occupies the flat land under the coconut palms has since closed down, unable to compete with the Isle of pines that is now well serviced by fast ferries. By virtue of our early start this was just a lunch stop after which we headed for Prony Bay.
The Cruising Guide to New Caledonia states that one could easily spend a week in Prony Bay so i chose to allocate the following day to explore this location. The Southern end of New Caledonia is famous for its rich red soil which contrasts brilliantly against the deep green cover of the pines. The landscape is steep with trees lining down to the shore at most places. The red soil exposes itself over the steeper gradients where the local flora struggles to maintain a hold. The most prominent landmark in Prony Bay is the processing and loading facility for the nickel mine. This symbol of industry appears at odds with the beauty of its surrounding but the mine itself is out of view from the anchorages and the infrastructure sparkled brilliantly in the sun as if it belonged there, which of course it does. Tourism makes up just 2% of GDP in New Caledonia with the bulk of their wealth coming from mining.
We motored to the eastern side of Prony Bay to anchor at Bonne Anse Rade De L’est a bay that extends to the east of the large Recif Du Prony the reef which lies across the entrance to Prony Bay. The sandy beaches are fringed with coral reefs. The beach provided a colourful selection of shells for which Prony Bay is famous. The adjacent land is all nature reserve and there are well marked tracks that take you around the shoreline or up to the lighthouse from where you can view the entire cruising area up to Isle of Pines. In the first couple of bays the bottom is extensively coral so it pays to anchor further up the bay and explore by dinghy or along the foreshore track.

Turtle Bay

Bonne Anse Rade De L’est

On Day 3 we pulled up the sails and went for a sail around Prony Bay. Up one of the northern arms you come to Rade Du Norde (North Bay) the site of a penal colony on the banks of a river. We took the dinghy up the river past these ruins overgrown by Banyan and the distinctive Pine trees and came to a waterfall from where you could walk a ways further up the river if exercise is on the agenda.
After Lunch we ventured up the other north arm to Carenage bay. The water here is rich in minerals and gets less clear the further you progress into the bay. The coral here is said to be the most colourful to be found, excellent for snorkelling and world famous diving locations such as the Aiguille Needle, a spire that rises 35m from the sea floor.
This landscape is truly dramatic with steep wooded hills on both sides up what is a narrow and extended passage of water. There are hot springs to be found and many nature walks that can be taken in if you have the time. Be careful to clean your shoes after walking on the red clay as it will make a mess of the boat leaving red stains that are hard to remove.
We did not stop instead headed out of the bay and sailed up the coast to Port Boise where there is an eco lodge most importantly with a TV where we were able to watch the Rugby World Cup final in the most perfect multinational venue I could imagine.

Prison colony ruins up the river

Looking over port Boise up to Isle of Pines

Day 4 Heading out of Port Boise making passage to the isle De Pines there is a large area of reef and isles to port which is a nature reserve where any access is forbidden. This area is set aside as a control area to study and compare the parts of the reef where humans have free reign. I am impressed by the planning that has gone in to providing for reserves and the respect that this country has for its environment even though it seems somewhat unnecessary when it is all so pristine.
This stretch of water is where the whales come to breed July through to September and the local whale watching industry that comes to life to service this demand in those months. It is the only charter area where you are allowed to view this spectacle from your charter boat.
Sailing on port tack located us back on the charted passage up to the Isle of Pines. Rolling up the head sail we motor sailed on Port tack at 30 degrees to the wind (wind strength averaging 20 knots) and tacked when on the lay line to make for Kuto Bay in the Isle of Pines. In the first part of this leg the water was flat protected by the reef that extends southward from the Isle of Pines. As we got out into open water the sea was longer and the Catana rode gently over the swell making for an enjoyable passage in good time arriving just before mid day.
The ilse of Pines is one of those places blessed with a quality all travelling souls yearn for. Sand so white I told the kids they may have to take their shoes off when they went ashore. High mountains block the most relentless of trade winds dominating a picture perfect foreground that so defines paradise.
Kuto Bay is a place you feel you have arrived and never want to leave. The best things to do on the isle de pines is not a lot, take a couple of days at least to just enjoy being there. We had a couple of resident turtles in the bay and the water was alive with marine life. Throw scraps over the side and the small Remora sharks appear from nowhere having adapted to suck on to cruising yachts rather than their evolved partners sharks and manta rays.
There are several points of interest around Kuto bay. Day trips to the surrounding reefs and isles is a good program while here. The northern passage and the bays to the east require special consideration that Sail Connections would be happy to discuss.
We spent the following day in a rental car exploring the other side of the Island which is an efficient way to see it all in a day. That evening we met up with our local friends we had met at the day before and dined on their catch of the day. This was cooked over the hot coals on the BBQ served up with a delicious local red pepper and soy dressing. Good food in the company of friends and the people you meet makes for fond memories of any charter. Our experience was enriched by the enduring relationships we formed while there.
After discussing with our local friends New Caledonia as a cruising destination I gained the insights of their local knowledge and came away far more informed than what I would have been able to assert through observation and research. They insisted we must spend the following day with them to be shown the area around Kuto Bay but unfortunately we had run out of time if we were to see the Isles of the Southern Reef.
Day 6, We set sail on a reach across open water heading for the reef that encircles the southern Isles. At this time I figured I could handle catching a fish and extended out the hand line supplied with the boat armed with the lure of my choice. Fish are plentiful here and expect whatever you land to form the basis of several meals.

Kuto Bay

Meridian Resort

The Southern Isles are a watery wonderland over an expanse described as the largest lagoon in the world. Sailing downwind at a reaching angle to the wind navigating around these coral clusters is surprisingly easy. Reconciling the chart plotter against the wider view from the chart the final judgement comes down to what you can see. The crystal clear waters cast colours that define what lies below. Blue is good, turquoise look out for brown and brown is out of bounds. It really is that easy avoiding the reefs while at the same time take a fascinating look at the natural world you are now part of.
It is interesting to note the evolution of a Coral Island being played out in stages. There are deep formations you can safely pass over which ultimately grow to the surface to form the reefs we look out for. Once on the surface the expansive plateau of coral forms a foothold for debris, dead coral and sand to wash up on and from there and Island is formed.
There are many of these Isles some forming groups or shapes offering more shelter than others.
We motored into the bay of our first selection of anchorage which had several boats and chose to select an Island all to ourselves for the night. In the lagoon you have a double layer of shelter from the sea with the outer reef and then the Island you shelter behind. From the wind there is little shelter but at night it tends to die down and our evening in the lagoon was serene.
At anchor the scene becomes somewhat surreal. Around dusk sea birds by the hundred appeared searching for a meal in the waves but never engaging to fish. A dark shadow glides past some 50 meters astern that I am left to believe was a Manta Ray.  A squawk from the dark joins us in the cockpit which by the time a torch is at hand the bird has been spooked leaving his dinner on the duck board.
By night the thin vale of land we are sheltering behind becomes less defined and we get the feeling of being anchored in the middle of the ocean, be it as calm as a pond. This takes a bit of getting used to as it is without the feeling of security one gets when cradled by a bigger chunk of land but it is very cool.

Footprints in squeaky sand

Sunset over the Southern Lagoon

Day 7 and we must be back at base by 5pm. We set sail with the temptation to do more than is possible in one day but instead decide to head back along the outer reef to lunch at Amedee light located inside the passage, 12 miles out from Noumea. This Island is a great anchorage and a nature reserve but it is the 45 m high light house that is most impressive. Made in Paris in 1865 of formed iron sheets to be shipped out and bolted together on site. Its rolled base and 16 sided structure is a fascinating piece of architecture and well worth the visit on a day that it is open and you can climb to the top. Other attractions in this area include some excellent snorkeling in the bay, several wrecks located close for any divers on board and a shark observatory.
With a great degree of sadness we set sail for Noumea to make fast passage under sail back to base.
New Caledonia is a diverse and beautiful destination. The Isle of pines is a perfect tropical Island destination with the variety of Isles and mainland bays adding depth to the whole experience. As a French pacific destination it is very different to Tahiti. I would definitely go again, next time I will go for longer.

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